All news: October 2023

On the second day of your stay in Ecuador, for further acclimatization, you can choose a small volcano that you like more. One of the most popular volcano is the Pichincha Volcano (4696 m), which hangs directly over Quito itself and in clear weather from the top there are stunning views of the capital of Ecuador. From Quito, you can climb here first by the Teleferico cable car up to 4200 m and then walk along the marked trail to the very top. Many Ecuadorians and tourists like to spend time here on a good day.

Our Rustam continued his acclimatization here, accompanied by a guide Ivan. An unexpected (but hopefully pleasant) meeting with a representative of the local fauna took place at the top.

Alexander climbed another volcano, about an hour and a half drive from Quito, Guaga Pichincha (4776 m). He's a little taller and there are fewer people here. It was quite cloudy and a solid cloud cover began above 3500 m, so this time it was not possible to shoot stunning shots from the top. But the mood is excellent and the acclimatization process is going according to plan.

 And everything is still ahead!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Tanzania:

31.10. Jambo Rafiki! The Saber-Toothed Koloboks group of the 7 Summits Club left the equatorial jungle today. We walked through the heather thickets, crossing the moorland zone (grassy marshes), along a wide path to the Horombo hut (3720m). On the way we met a small chameleon and very impudent ravens. Today we finally saw the Kibo cone — the summit of Kilimanjaro!

Everyone is in a good mood and ready for further acclimatization.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Tanzania:

Jumbo Rafiki! Greetings from Africa! A group of the 7 Summits Club with an uncertain name started today on the Marangu route. After issuing permits, we went to the equatorial jungle. The walk to the first overnight stay of Mandara Hut (2750 m) took 4 hours. At the beginning everything was fine, but in the last 15 minutes a tropical downpour was turned on... Apparently, the season of short rains begins a little bit. On the way we met two families of monkeys watching us closely! Tomorrow we go higher at 3700, to the Horombo camp.

On October 24, at 9 o'clock Nepali time, Yuri Koshelenko and Alexey Lonchinsky made the first ever ascent on the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar, with a height of 6645 meters. The length of the route is about 1800 m. Three bivouacs. To ABC from the base under the Tashi Lapcha Pass is an 8-hour walk along the Talomban glacier [Dolombao]. "The buttress consists of destroyed granite, it is good that it is fused with ice in many places."

Yuri Koshelenko (mountain.ru ): The route "Katana" to Rovaling Kang Shar, why katana, yes, because it is associated with duty, with the harsh rules of military valor. "Katana" is a samurai sword…

 When Alexey and I entered climbing mode, we managed to get out of it only after reaching the top. If I was the first to work on Fangi in our previous first ascent, then Alexey was in the lead on this route for the entire rocky part. He was very good at passing long intricate sections of rocks.

 Alexey brought with him a completely new Vento equipment, skillfully used it, showed a high level of climbing technique. Sections 5 and 5 + k. sl. M4, M5. we all went free climbing, without using fixed ropes. I happened to be the first to climb on the day of reaching the top through complex conglomerates of crests and mushrooms from icicles and empty snow.

 The idea of the first ascent in Rowaling is not the only idea, I have a lot of them.  Perhaps this idea, despite the crazy logistics, vibrated the most strongly and Alexey was easy on the upswing.

 In general, he is an outstanding climber, I do not understand why he is underestimated in the St. Petersburg Federation, probably, as always, personal motives.

Thanks to Vento, Bask Co and personally to my friend Konstantin Babkin, who ordered me a painting, and then helped me a lot in financing this expedition!

 Go to the mountains as to a temple and do not look for dividends, Its will decide for themselves how sincere you are, there is not for  money and fame here, but moreover, super-existence....

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Tanzania:

29.10. Jumbo Rafiki! Greetings from Africa! A new group of the 7 Summits Club has gathered to complete the climbing program on Kilimanjaro along the Marangu route! We first sunbathed after settling in our favorite hotel Aisha Macham. We got to know each other during dinner and held a briefing on the program. Trekking starts tomorrow!

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal! The group "UFO and He" today, October 27, early in the morning climbed to the top of Mera Peak with a height of 6461 meters. The weather was almost perfect. From the summit, we had views of 5 Himalayan eight-thousand-meter Summits: Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Lhotse, Everest and Cho-Oyu. After the summit, we descended, with a short stop at the assault camp, to the village of Khare. The flight to Lukla is scheduled for tomorrow.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" finished the program by climbing the Kala-Pathar mountain (5642m). A night out and a frosty morning gave us an unforgettable view of the majestic mountains Everest (8848), Lhotse (8516), Nuptse (7745), Ama Dablam (6814) and Pumori (7161). But there was one more bonus as a flight to Kathmandu by helicopter. Unforgettable views of mountainous Nepal accompanied us throughout the flight. See you in the mountains! The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" has reached its goal, we have climbed to the Everest base camp (5364m.) And tomorrow early in the morning, we will have another bonus - climbing Mount Kala Pathar (5500m.). The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

Namaste from Nepal!  The UFO and He group descended to the Mera La pass, altitude 5300, to consolidate our acclimatization. The route to the pass is snowy, so we needed crampons, ice axes and ropes. Traces of a snow leopard were found on the pass itself. Yes, yes, that graceful mountain leopard. Tomorrow we will spend the day in the vicinity of Khare, we will conduct classes on climbing along the fix ropes.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 summits Club and the group's guide, reports from Mexico:

Today, on October 24, our team (all 10 people) ascended the highest volcano in America, Orizaba Peak. Hurray! We climbed at a good pace, all well done!

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal, from the super-group "Gornyashki"! Today, we went up to the next loggia, in the village of Lobuche (4900m). Tomorrow we will go to the Everest base camp (5300 m.). The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal!  We are in Khare! This is a highland village at the foot of Mera Peak, from here the ascent of the mountain already begins. Today there was a short walk from Tangnak, so we walked slowly and enjoyed the surrounding views. Tomorrow we plan to go to the Mera-La pass.

A message from our friends from Vento company:

 Today (23.10) at 9 o'clock Nepalese time, Alexey Lonchinsky and Yuri Koshelenko made the first ascent to the summit of Rolwaling Kang Shar. The original version of the descent was abandoned, because: "the ridge is solid hollow snow, even it was not easy to get out to the top, and it was almost impossible to continue further."

During the daylight hours they managed to get down to the glacier and pass the crack zone. Then there was a simple descent to the base camp.

Alexey Lonchinsky and Yuri Koshelenko are among the best climbers in the World, repeatedly awarded with various "Golden Ice axes", champions of Russia. Alexey is a leading methodist coach at the 7 Summits Club. He manages all the training mountaineering camps that our company conducts. Yuri Koshelenko also worked as a guide in the 7 Summits Club company.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and the group's guide, reports from Mexico:

Hello everyone! The Los coyotes sin casas group moved to the Orizaba base camp today. It's super comfortable here. Everything is just perfectly organized. Great food, wine, toilets, lights and tents in growth. We have a lot of local guides and porters with us. Tomorrow we will move to the upper assault camp at 4600. And then the assault. The weather is perfect. The condition of the route is perfect, the team is smooth and strong.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal! We continue to go to the goal. The group "UFO and He " passed another section of the route: from Kothe to Tagnak. We left the forest area and walked along the river all day. On the way we visited a cave monastery. Tomorrow we move to the village of Khare, from where the path to the top already begins.

Dmitry Semenov, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, sends from Nepal:

Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" made the move from Namche Bazaar (3400 m.) to Debuche (3740 m.) The march was filled with beautiful views. Also on the way we visited the Tengboche Monastery. Tomorrow we will go further along the route to Periche (4400m.). The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

Alexander Abramov, President of the 7 Summits Club and the group's guide, reports from Mexico:

Our team of climbers on Orizaba was named "Coyotes sin casas".  Today we climbed the Cerro Negro 4600m mountain. Everything went well, cheerfully. There is a hope that all members of the team will reach the summit of the highest volcano in North America, Mount Orizaba.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from Nepal:

 Namaste from Nepal!  The group "UFO and He" continued their journey. Today we moved from Tuli Kark to the village of Kothe. The route passed through picturesque places. At first it was a rhododendron forest with thickets of bamboo, which was replaced by fir. Tomorrow we are going to the village of Tagnak.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Dmitry Semenov reports from Nepal:

 Greetings from Nepal! Today our super-group "Gornyashki" made an acclimatization rotation to the observation point near the Everest View alpine hotel (3880m.). We remember today with wonderful views.  We saw Everest and Ama Dablam. Tomorrow we will have a difficult march to our next loggia in the village of Deboche (3745m.) The guides of the group are Dmitry Semenov and Sergey Avtomonov.

Today our team of climbers on Orizaba moved from Mexico City to the village of Zopan at an altitude of 3000m. We drove past the mountain of La Malincha and by lunch we were in a high-mountain refuge.

After lunch, we went out for a beautiful trekking through the forest to the waterfall and returned to the refuge closer to night. The whole team has become friends and happily spends the evening near the fireplace. Tomorrow, according to the plan, we will have an acclimatization ascent to the Sierra Negra Volcano with a height of 4600m.

The guide of the Transformer Travel and 7 Summits Club team Alexander Abramov.