All news: June 2023

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!

 Morning exercise, breakfast at 7 o'clock. And at 8.30 we went to acclimatization in ABC (altitude 5300). The weather has worsened. The icefall took place in a blizzard. But when we came out to ABC, the sun also came out. We were already descending in good weather. There was a pleasant surprise waiting for us at the camp - even a few: first compote, and then pizza and a salad of fresh vegetables. And for a snack - dried roach. Here you begin to appreciate the little things. During the day, avalanches were rumbling coming from Broad Peak.

The guides Rostovtsev Artem and Spirin Alexander reports from Georgia:

Midnight greeted us with a clear, starry sky - so you can go! Breakfast, final equipment check. On the way! A chain of glowing lanterns stretched along the slope.   The hospitable Meteostation released us into the embrace of the dark silhouettes of the Caucasus Mountains. In the silence of the night we keep our way to the Gergeti glacier. Peacefully creaking with crampons, we take the first, confident steps along this majestic glacier, in the direction of the Maili Plateau. Here is the long-awaited dawn, our frozen limbs are finally thawing, warmed by the gentle rays of the morning sun.  We traverse a steep slope. We work in ropes.  Safely bypass seraks, continue to move to the saddle. The first harbingers of impending bad weather appear: snow flags on the top, clouds rise and thicken - we have a few hours of weather window left. 

Ahead is the most difficult section to go through and start the descent before the storm.  Everyone tried, but only four managed to stand at the very top.  And then there was a difficult, long and exhausting descent to the Meteostation. At some point it seemed that the mountain did not want to let go ... a strong storm wind, horizontally flying snow that hit the eyes (even under glasses) and swept the trail, visibility close to zero complicated the search for the right path, even had to use navigators to pass safely, the last part of the descent was complicated by deep softened snow on the trail. Wet, tired, but happy, we returned to the Meteostation that had become our home. Hot soup, a warm dry sleeping bag and a sound sleep - this is what we have been dreaming about for the last hours. Your favorite guides are Artem Rostovtsev and Alexander Spirin.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Iran:

 Greetings from Iran from the band that finally got its name! We are now "Deniski"! The second day of the Damavand program began with a climb to the ski hotel at 3600 m.  We were lucky that we climbed in comfortable conditions in the cabins to the hotel itself, because frequent stops of the cable car in the off-season are not uncommon. We stayed in a beautiful hotel "Tochal ", the comfort of which is especially appreciated at such a height. "Deniski" was checked out by local kebabs, but they still don't know what kind of "belly" holiday will be tomorrow!

 After lunch and a medical examination, mandatory for this hotel, we went at a calm pace to acclimatize to the Tochal Mountain, 3964 m high. We talked a lot on the way, took pictures, the team stuck together before our eyes. This is wonderful, because a good atmosphere in the group is the key to a successful ascent! Tomorrow we will move to Damavand, get permits and gourmet day. Guides Evgeny Fedyunin, Valery Myasoyedov and Olga Startseva.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 30. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 “High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we finally got enough sleep! Firstly, we slept on beds with blankets. Secondly, breakfast was already at 8.00 and there was no need to pack! After breakfast, we had a shower. And after lunch - an afternoon nap.

Tomorrow we make the first acclimatization rotation - to ABC at 5300 and return to BC.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Evgeny Fedyunin reports from Iran:

All salaam from Tehran! A new program of Damavand has started! The third group, most of the participants had previously climbed Elbrus and Kilimanjaro together.

And again a long and eventful day full of impressions. Traditional local dishes - dizi, various kebabs, fruits. The most famous restaurant in the Grand Bazaar area in a historic building, the first bank in Iran. Golestan Palace with a diamond hall, royal gifts for the shah - very impressive, and well, very immodest!

The beautiful Maryam, professor of the University Department of the Russian language and an expert in local history, again impressed with her stories and local legends! The welcome dinner, according to tradition, was held in the panoramic revolving restaurant of the Milad TV tower with a view of the evening sparkling Tehran, at an altitude of 290m. Tomorrow we begin active acclimatization!

Guides Valery Myasoyedov, Evgeny Fedyunin, Olga Startseva.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

 June 29. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today is a significant day - we finally came to the K2 Base Camp!!!

It was snowing and raining all night at Camp Concordia. We also went out in the snow. On the road alternately - then snow, then rain, then a little sun. On the approaches to the BC, the majestic K2 finally emerged from the clouds. However, not for long. But it impressed us very much.

By lunchtime we came to the place of BC. We put on a team uniform, raised the flag and solemnly entered the camp. Here we were joyfully greeted by a team of our Sherpas led by Alex Abramov.We comfortably accommodated in single tents with beds (!). Had lunch. Now we rest. Snowfall is forecast for the next 2-3 days. We will rest and acclimatize at the Base Camp.

The heads of the expedition to K2 Alex Abramov and Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

Fotos by Arno Ter Saakovs

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The group "We just want to see" continues to actively prepare for the ascent of Elbrus.  We climbed up to the Pastukhov Rocks, tried a new height, liked it. We are waiting for the weather and go to the summit of Elbrus.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

The group "It's fun with us, but it's a shame" sends greetings! We completed our acclimatization by going to the Pastukhov Rocks. It was warm well, but then the forecast gets worse. We are waiting for changes and go to the planned mountain.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 28.  All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2!  Today we spent the first night on the glacier in the Goro-2 camp at an altitude of 4200. It was cold. But the first time we got enough sleep - breakfast was scheduled as early as 7.30. Woke up, opened the tents and gasped - such beauty around: K1 or Masherbrum, just a little short of 8000 - few people have been to its top; Muztag Tower Summits, ahead of the gorge - the Steep pyramid of Gasherbrum IV, on the edges of the two-horned Mitre and Marble Peak…

The trek to the Concordia camp today was quite simple - we reached it in 5 hours. Here Broad Peak has already opened in all its glory. But K2 is still hiding in the clouds.

Tomorrow we go to base camp K2.

I want to mention the friends from the RD studio team. They not only keep up with the whole group -  but also manage to shoot on the road, running ahead of the group. And after coming to the camp, when everyone is resting, they work - they shoot interviews.

The head of the expedition to K2 Lyudmila Korobeshko and the expedition doctor Andrey Selivanov are in touch.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

News from Iran. Today, the group "Inquisitive" in full force made an ascent to the summit of Damavand. We did it confidently and at an excellent pace. Now we are resting in Larijan. Details tomorrow. 

Super-guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorozhukov reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from the group "It's fun with us, but it's a shame"! Today we took a walk with our cheerful company to the Ai cafe.  The weather was promised rainy, but it was the opposite. The sun was shining all the way. Everyone's condition is excellent, we are working further.

Artem Rostovtsev, the guide of the 7 Summits Club, reports from Georgia:

The first in 2023 expedition of the 7 Summits Club to Mount Kazbek from Georgia began. We did not immediately rush to the slopes of the mountain. We took a walk first in the vicinity of the Gudauri resort. Today we went to the top of Sadzele (3250m). And only in the evening we found ourselves at the foot of Kazbek. The most difficult thing for everyone in the team is the abundance of delicious Georgian food, while it defeats us.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The group "We just want to see" begins acclimatization and preparation for climbing Elbrus. Today we went to the Cheget to the Ai cafe. Part of the way passed through the forest, and part in the zone of alpine meadows. The weather turned out fine: sunny, warm, admired the surrounding peaks, including Elbrus. Tomorrow we are already going to the slopes of Elbrus, where we will continue to acclimatize. 

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Alexander Dorojukov reports from the Elbrus region:

Greetings from the Elbrus region from a new group! We have started an acclimatization program with a walk to the Refuge of 11. We had a good walk, had snow classes. We distinguish sticks from an ice axe. Basically everything is fine, we continue to work further.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition to K2 "High Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Wow, what a day we had today - tin!!!  We got up before 4 am. We had breakfast at 4.30 and left at 5. An hour later we reached the famous Baltoro glacier and started moving along it. From the good - these are stunning views, especially of the Trango Towers. And again Broad Peak flashed in the distance. From not very good - we walked almost 10 hours to the Urdukas camp. It's hot again, but the clouds have already started to come and even a little rain has fallen.

The biggest impression of the day is crossing the river. Barefoot, almost waist-deep in icy water - almost frostbitten our feet. But everyone is alive and well. Although one of the participants received a minor knee injury - a few scratches - Andrey quickly healed.

By the way, our doctor Andrey is in great demand - especially among local guys. Yesterday, a delegation of 15 porters came to him - everyone asked them to be treated. Andrey is kind - he does not refuse anyone.

The walk will be easier tomorrow. We'll rest there.

The Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! Yesterday, the equator of the program, the fourth day of the ascent of the Inquisitive group, brought variety to the hot dry weather.  At the entrance to the Mosque, we were covered with dense clouds, the traditional photo at the Mosque did not work out, and the Damavand was completely covered with clouds. The poppy slopes floated fascinatingly in the fog, and the poppies themselves were slightly nailed with dew. The photo with poppies on the background of the Damo didn't work out, but it turned out to be an unusual video. Be sure to take a look! And we will definitely take a photo with poppies on the descent. We reached the shelter at a good pace, stayed in a separate "room", and had a delicious fried chicken for dinner.

Today there was a short acclimatization walk 300 m above the shelter, after lunch rest and preparation for the assault.  Everyone feels great. We are going to storm early tomorrow morning.

From the messages of Alexander Abramov, the head of the expedition of the 7 Summits Club and the 8000 Club on K2:

Over the weekend, we (Alex Abramov, a team of Sherpas and Pakistani high-altitude guides-porters) reached the camp Goro-2, 4250m. The weather was great. There was almost no mobile connection, so we communicate with the office by satellite. Yesterday we moved to Camp Concordia, and today we have already approached the Base Camp. And we will start building our camp soon.

Guide and director of the 7 Summits Club Lyudmila Korobeshko reports from Pakistan:

June 25. All salaam from Pakistan from the participants of the expedition on K2 "High-Altitude Gene 2" or briefly GenKa2! Today we got up with the roosters again - at 4.30. We had breakfast at 5 in the morning. And we decided to "cheat" a little - we drove up 5 km by car. The remaining 15 honestly walked. Again in the heat, but the places are beautiful - along the river along the sand at first, then along the rocky paths. We saw Broad Peak and K2 in the distance. By lunchtime we reached the Paiju camp at 3400 in a small green grove - hooray - shade!!   Tomorrow will be the longest part of our trekking.

A Guide of the 7 Summits Club Valery Myasoedov reports from Iran:

Greetings from Iran! The third day of the "Inquisitive" program turned out to be the most intense. From the Shemshak hotel we went for acclimatization on the Akhangarak mountain, 3400 m. It was a hot day, a steep climb, we had to work hard, but when we approached the top, our Iranian guide Hossein announced that we were the first Russian group to climb this landmark peak. That's such an achievement! Next, lunch at a super restaurant on the riverbank, chicken kebab was delicious! After lunch, transfer to Demavend to get permits at the office of the Iranian Mountaineering Federation and, finally, to Larijan with its thermal waters. For dinner ... kebab again! ... but it is impossible to refuse this yummy, especially good was the lamb liver kebab and chicken fat. We ate everything, even asked for supplements. Tomorrow we climb to the refuge at 4200 m, the final and most important part of the program begins.

The guide of the 7 Summits Club Andrey Berezin reports from the Elbrus region:

News of the Elbrus region. The group "Chiki Puki" climbed the Western peak of Elbrus. We were lucky with the weather, although the forecast promised cloud cover.  From the top there were stunning views of the surrounding mountains and plains. Congratulations to all participants of the ascent!